The Old House, Wickham

Above: The Old House

I am not going to eat for a week. Not because I am full, although I am, but because I don’t want to ruin the memory of the meal I have just enjoyed at The Old House Hotel, Wickham. I want to let the flavours linger just a little bit longer.
I had met up with a girlfriend, Hazel, intending to be ladies who lunch. But in fact we had dinner (it’s a long story) and the hours whiled away unsuspectingly.
Although we had often met at Wickham, The Old House had slipped under our radar – understandably, perhaps, as owner John Guess only bought the property 16 months ago and described the property back then as tired and the food as needing “a kick up the backside”. He’s achieved an extraordinary turn-round in a relatively short space of time.

Stardom beckons
John, who also part owns that classic institution Rowleys of Jermyn Street, London, bought the hotel when, fed up with commuting to London, he was casting around for a local project: “I fell in love with the place in 20 minutes.” He is the driving force, James Parsons (he has worked at Marco Pierre White’s Canteen and a Michelin-starred restaurant in Provence and it shows) is head chef. Together they hope to secure a third AA rosette shortly and John is confident they are on target for Michelin stardom in a year and a half or so.

Stardom beckons
John, who also part owns that classic institution Rowleys of Jermyn Street, London, bought the hotel when, fed up with commuting to London, he was casting around for a local project: “I fell in love with the place in 20 minutes.” He is the driving force, James Parsons (he has worked at Marco Pierre White’s Canteen and a Michelin-starred restaurant in Provence and it shows) is head chef. Together they hope to secure a third AA rosette shortly and John is confident they are on target for Michelin stardom in a year and a half or so.
The Old House is a pretty Georgian townhouse on The Square, smothered at this time of year in the astonishing crimson of virginia creeper. Inside it’s an update of those wonderful old market town hotels I remember from childhood, exuding comfort, charm and quality. The décor is contemporary classic – squashy leather sofas, vibrant William Crozier prints on the walls and old oak boards. At the back, the light, bright restaurant, with white linen tablecloths and cream high-backed upholstered chairs, is part old drawing room with fireplace and beams, part soaring conservatory with doors opening onto a secluded garden.

Local menus
There’s a selection of menus including French-style set three course menu du jour with small carafe of wine for £15.95 (a fantastic deal), well-priced lunch menu, and a la carte; all have an emphasis on local, fresh and seasonal.
The wine list is predominantly old world – with many sourced by John himself from small vineyards. I had a wonderful glass of Touraine Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire that tasted of elderflower, Hazel had an inky Rioja with a nose of summer pudding.
Food choices were difficult. We started with a clever amuse bouche of crab and avocado ice cream in a champagne glass (well, I did, Hazel is vegetarian). A starter of Roquefort and walnut soufflé was fluffy and tangy, and Hazel’s “terrific” roast butternut squash soup was creamy with a perfect garnish of pine nuts. There was rosemary bread (aromatic and light) and raisin and pecan bread (moist and chewy) and a pat of butter presented on a square of black slate. For the main course, Hazel had spinach and ricotta cannelloni served with marinated Provencal vegetables – a robust portion (all the portions are generous) with lots of fresh spinach. I had monkfish and spices. The combination of textures – meaty monkfish wrapped in crisp Parma ham on soft noodles with poached king prawns and crunchy bok choi – was excellent; and the flavours were perfectly balanced with good dollops of lovely golden, piquant sauce.
Dessert for Hazel was a dark chocolate fondant: “the richest dessert I’ve every eaten”. I chose the Chocolate Assiette – five chocolate treats including a nutty foam, hot chocolate shot, dark fondant and gorgeous marquise. I am very serious about chocolate and this was exceptionally good. Then we relaxed over coffee – the foamiest, loveliest cappuccino served with stunning petit fours, such as mouthfuls of mini cinnamon doughnuts. It was just one perfectly presented course after another. And service was impeccable – unpretentious, efficient and friendly.
 “I’m passionate about the whole thing,” enthuses John. “I didn’t mean it to be like that, I was just buying a business. Life is all about making good business decisions and luck. Finding this place was luck, and finding James was luck. A fluke. I can’t take any credit for either – apart from recognising the opportunity.”

Take 3
Market town treats

The Lounge, 1-3 Heath Road, Petersfield, tel: 01730 266668
Small stylish restaurant with rich, substantial dishes.

The Bell Hotel, West Street, Alresford, tel: 01962 732429
Comfortable old coaching inn. Food is reportedly sound, but a little unexciting.

Stanwell House Hotel, High Street, Lymington, tel: 01590 677123 Individual boutique hotel with an emphasis on seafood.