Insider’s guide to Alresford

Above: Photograph: Roy Gentry; www.Alresford.org

Hampshire Life, November 2007

This beautiful Georgian town, set out on a medieval plan, is a feast for the eye. It’s also a very individual shopping experience, the location for numerous excellent places to eat and drink and, of course, the Watercress Line.

If a 13th-century resident of Alresford were to return today, he or she would still be able to get their bearings in this beautiful market town. For although fire destroyed many buildings over the centuries, the layout of Alresford, as it was designed in the 1200s, is still almost exactly the same.
The medieval buildings, with their vulnerable wooden construction and thatches, suffered their most destructive conflagration in 1689, when 117 of them, as well as the church and the market house, perished. Another blaze in 1736 caused more widespread damage. At this point the decision was made that their replacements should be constructed in a sturdier manner, this time of brick, with slate or clay peg tiles for roofing. And it is that edict which means we can enjoy the lovely Georgian buildings for which Alresford is celebrated today.

Much of the town is a Conservation Area, including the three main medieval streets, Broad Street, East Street and West Street, as well as The Soke and Pound Hill. Inside this boundary are around 250 houses and more than half of these are listed. Just walking around the town is a pleasure, enjoying the colour-washed facades of the houses, browsing the many individual retailers and enjoying a coffee or a meal in the extensive range of cafes, restaurants and pubs.

Sitting east of the River Itchen and south of the River Alre, Alresford – or New Alresford as we should more correctly call it – has attracted residents for millennia because of its clear chalk streams. And it was water which inspired Henri de Blois, the Bishop of Winchester, to build the Great Weir between Old and New Alresford (then known as Novum Forum) to dam the springs. It provided a head of water for the mills downstream as well serving as a fish farm to supply his palace at Bishop’s Sutton. The succeeding bishop, Godfrey de Lucy, completed the layout of Alresford’s town centre.

Fulling and corn mills thrived, tanners, dyers and clothiers set up business and the town became a very successful and prosperous trading centre for sheep, cattle, horses and pigs.

Watercress spectacular
Residents had enjoyed Alresford’s watercress crop, which grew easily in the chalk ditches and streams, for hundreds of years. Because it so easily wilts, watercress was very much a local delight until the railway reached the town in 1865. Suddenly this fast and efficient link meant that London and the Midlands were only hours away, and Alresford watercress became much sought-after.
Today the town celebrates its crop every year with the Alresford Watercress Festival. This year thousands of people braved un-springlike weather in May to see the Watercress Man leading the parade up Broad Street, followed by local schoolchildren, dressed as creatures of the riverbed, handing out the first of the season’s harvest. Chef Antony Worrall Thompson was on hand to present prizes.

The means by which Alresford watercress reached a wider public – the railway – is nowadays a reason why many visitors initially discover this beautiful place. Closed by the Beeching axe in 1973, the Watercress Line, otherwise known as the Mid-Hants Railway, re-opened its route from Alresford to Ropley in 1977 and was eventually extended to Alton in 1985. Today the steam trains attract thousands to the town every year to enjoy nostalgic trips and themed events.

Agriculture is still very important to Alresford and its environs. The 99th annual Alresford Agricultural Show was a record-breaker, attracting 16,000 visitors this year – even though the outbreak of Foot and Mouth Disease meant organiser Gussie Raimes had to cancel the traditional animal competitions just two weeks before the September 1 event.

Although the Watercress Line and the town’s main streets are plenty to occupy the casual visitor, digging deeper into the town’s history is rewarding.

You can enjoy two fascinating trails – the Alresford Millennium Trail and the Arle Valley Trail. The first of these begins in the Station Yard, where you can park, and takes you to the parish church of St John the Baptist. There you can see the graves of four French officers and one of their wives, the legacy of the mid-18th century when Alresford was one of 11 parole towns in Hampshire and 300 French prisoners-of-war were kept here.

The route also takes in Broad Street, still the centre for celebrations in the town and home to the headquarters of the 9th US Army 47th Infantry Division from 1943 to D-Day.
The trail continues along Mill Hill and Ladywell Lane to the River Arle. Then it brings you to Arlebury Park and Pound Hill and you can decide whether to take a diversion to enjoy East Street, where the late broadcaster John Arlott lived on the corner of Sun Lane.

The Arle Valley Trail focuses on the beautiful countryside close to the town centre and there are opportunities to divert to take two longer walks if you are feeling energetic.
One of the most inviting aspects of Alresford is the opportunity to enjoy the town’s hospitality. There are many, many places for visitors to take refreshment, in its historic inns, excellent restaurants and delightful cafes, so you will, like me, be tempted to visit often and stay long.


Alresford diary dates:

• Torchlight parade and Fireworks: November 5.
• Arrival of Father Christmas: December 12.
• Late Night Shopping: December 12.
• Santa Specials on the Watercress Line: December 1, 2, 8, 9, 15, 16, 20, 21, 22, 23 and 24.
• Christmas dining on the Watercress Line: various dates throughout December, tel: 01962 733810.

My Alresford...
Gussie Raimes, who organises the Alresford Show, explains what she loves about the town.

How long have you been organising the Alresford Show?
I used to compete on my pony and take the dog in to the ‘waggiest tail’ class as a child. The show is held in Tichborne Park, which is farmed by my dad – so there’s always been a connection with the show. I got involved in 2001 and my first show was September 2002. I have now been secretary for six years.

For how many years have you lived and worked in Alresford?
My family lives in Cheriton and farms around Alresford. I went to university in Devon and then worked in Bedfordshire for a few years, which is where I met Robert. I moved home to Tichborne in 1999 and we married in 2001. Robert now runs the farm in happy harmony, I tell him, with my family! We have two children, Isabel aged 3 and Hugo aged 8 months.

Why did you decide to live/open a business here? It’s home.

What do you like about Alresford?
It’s an attractive little town with a real heart. It always looks good with its mini Christmas trees or hanging baskets lining the streets. There are really good independent shops, restaurants and businesses. It’s a thriving local community with many local events to be proud of.

What is your favourite eating place?
Shapla! With alarming regularity. Lamb Passanda for me and Chicken Jalfrezei for Robert – for all the big occasions, Valentine’s, New Year’s Eve, night after Alresford Show… and it is delicious cold in the morning for breakfast! The Tichborne Arms is brilliant with the kids, particularly on a sunny day in the garden.

Where do you like to shop?
Jaga kitchens and Eddolls Carpets a lot recently (doing up the house). Alresford is brilliant for buying presents, Olive Grove, Alresford Gift Shop, Lavenders, West Lea farm shop for flowers and cakes, Evans Butchers for Gillian’s beef and bacon, Harvest Delicatessen for cheeses, but Soles Butcher for bread! My husband’s favourite shop would be Alresford Builders’ Merchant – an Aladdin’s cave for half-useful husbands.

What would be your ideal day in Alresford?
It’s a Thursday! I’d go straight to the WI market (you’ve got to get in early) for home-cooked food that I shall later pass off as my own. Then I might potter off to Olive Grove having just discovered some gorgeous little glass necklaces there. And opposite to Ragamuffins for children’s clothes. Whilst there, maybe a coffee sat outside Tiffins. At this point I’ll look down at my clothes and judge whether I’m fit to go in to designer shops, Hetre and Moda Rosa or whether it’s best to just press my nose to the window (I expect they’d prefer not!). Then I’d head up West Street, nip in to Alresford Beauty for a treatment. Then wander down Broad Street – it’s always worth looking in Help the Aged for some designer bargains. A haircut with Lynne at Hair Art would be good, then for my children to appear miraculously and we’d have a lovely family moment going along the Millennium Walk and feeding the ducks with bread that they’d rather
not have.

What would you advise a visitor to see and do while they’re visiting Alresford?
As I have mentioned, the Millennium Walk past the Fulling Mill is lovely. And, if you enjoy wildlife, Alresford Pond. There are also some beautiful gardens open in the summer and in the winter for the snowdrops. The Watercress Line is one of Alresford’s main attractions, and nearby is Hinton Ampner House and Northington Grange – stunning buildings. But really Alresford’s attraction is to browse the varied and excellent shops along East Street, West Street and Broad Street.